![]() ![]() Probably because it’s not really about surfing, it’s about time, and mortality, and how a deep, guiding passion can hold us back and propel us forward in unpredictable ways. “Bill is both, and he has written about surfing in a way that is interesting to non-surfers. “There are great surfers and there are great writers, but so rarely is this the same person,” Gaghan said. to Hawaii to famous surf spots the world over before they were even discovered.Īccording to Deadline, Gaghan will write and direct the movie, and Finnegan will be an executive producer. ![]() ![]() Barbarian Days describes Finnegan’s lifelong relationship with surfing that takes him from Ventura, Calif. For the better, I think – if deepening my own obsession with surfing is a positive. ![]() If you surf – scratch that – if you are a human being, and have yet to read William Finnegan’s odyssey/memoir Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life, find yourself a copy. Pulitzer prize winner and a book about surfing at the top of Obama’s reading list, now a movie? Amazon Studios has tapped Oscar-winning screenwriter Stephen Gaghan to adapt the memoir for the big screen. ![]()
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